The summer of 2007 was like most other summers, I assume. People worked hard, went to the beach, and made new friends. I wouldn’t know though, because I was living in another world. The mountain town of Tlaxiaco
in Oaxaca
, Mexico had been my home for the last seven months while I studied at a bible school. Having decided to stay on with the ministry, I was required to complete a four month internship living with a host family. I needed to master the language before my apprenticeship began in September. During the school year, I hadn’t had much time for regular language study. Thus, as of April when I began my internship, I only spoke Spanish well enough to have simple conversations.
Email Update Oaxaca
Sunday, March 4, 2007 3:51 PM
As far as my host family goes, it’s settled that I'm staying with my friend Cesia. She's 20, and is my best Mexican friend here. We always have a ton of fun together (we get a bit crazy). Her dad is a pastor of a small church down the road from us. I spent the night there on Friday. I really can't wait to till I live there. So encouraging. I know I'm going to learn a ton of Spanish & culture. I learned just in that night how to cook a bunch of stuff, and a lot of Spanish & cultural stuff. They've been living in Tlaxiaco for a while, so they are more set in the 'town' culture than the 'village' culture, which is fine. It’s good because I feel really comfortable speaking Spanish with them.
I was instructed by my supervisor to develop a plan for myself that involved the LAMP method. Language Acquisition Made Practical focuses on learning language through social situations. I was supposed to make 20-30 contacts with whom I would visit each day and recite a memorized monologue to. A natural introvert, this idea terrified me. I had only survived the last seven months by cowering behind my friends. Although I spent several hours a week surrounded by Spanish conversation, I was convinced of my inability, and thus stayed silent.
Cesia became my friend because I didn’t need to talk with her. We got along very well with our similar youthful spirits. We would watch movies and play games. We would run and laugh and joke. But we would never talk.
I moved in the first week of April. Cesia and I cleared some things away, swept down the dirt floors, and somehow fit my borrowed cot along the wall opposite her bed. Separated by a curtain was the other part of the room, which housed her younger brother. The house was structured like a log cabin, with no insulation to keep the night cold from coming through the cracks.
For the first month or so, much of my time in Cesia's home was spent cooking and cleaning. I had to find a good balance of helping out enough so that, culturally, I would not be seen as a freeloader. I was a little nervous about this arrangement, since I knew I was responsible for learning Spanish. I wanted to implement a routine of language study for myself, but didn't really know how to do that. No classes were offered for me, and I knew that if I didn't want to use the LAMP method I should find a suitable alternative for myself.
“Tienes que
aprender, Alisia
”
Cesia's mom exhorted me. She demonstrated how to flip a tortilla correctly.
“Um, sí,” I responded while rubbing the smoke from my eyes.
She continued, “Because if not, you'll never know how to cook! And what will you do when you go to other countries where there aren't microwaves like in your country?”
I smiled a little. This Spanish phrase was embedded in my memory long before I learned what it meant. Cesia's mom said it to me constantly, with the exact same emphasis each time. She was convinced it was her sovereign duty to prepare me to be a housewife one day. It was her who taught me to cook, embroider, and crochet.
“Asi?” I tried to flip another tortilla on the hot komal
. Cesia rescued the ruined lump of dough.
“Asi,” she turned one over easily.
Soon, I found it necessary to step outside again to catch my breath from the smoke. I rubbed my arms then stared in shock as my singed arm hairs brushed away.
Re: Hello
Saturday, May 5, 2007 11:32 AM
Yesterday I was in [Cesia’s] house a lot. I've been helping out, they work a lot. It’s been hard keeping my priorities straight. Spanish study? Relationships in town? Relationships & work in the house? God time? For at least this month I'm going to help out around Cesia's house & focus on God more than other stuff. Being at home gets me as much or more Spanish as being in town.
As I gained confidence with my role in Cesia's house, I gradually transitioned to a schedule that would allow me a greater variety of Spanish conversation. Each day after the morning chores, I walked a mile through the corn fields to the highway. From there I’d catch a 40 cent taxi ride into the center of town, where I would spend four to six hours a day.
Tlaxiaco is a beautiful place. The smell of street food fills the air: fried bananas, cinnamon tea, fresh fruit, and homemade cheese. Vendors line the streets. American cities look gray in comparison; Mexico is decorated, unabashedly, in rich colors: the buildings, clothing, plastic chairs, and even the tarps strung over the stands to provide shade. The tiny alleys are laid out in a nonsensical maze; I spent much of my first several visits quite lost in them.
Nevertheless, I started to meet new people. I did this more out of fear of my supervisor than anything else. Thankfully it was easy to make friends in a town with only a handful of Americans. We were an anomaly, heartily welcomed.
Que ta? (What’s up?)
Monday, June 11, 2007 12:13 PM
I need you to come back so I can show off my Spanish. (just kidding) But God has been really good in blessing me in that. The main thing that changed is more my confidence level with talking. I’m learning a ton. I’ve been reading my Bible out loud in Spanish every day. Plus the songs at Cesia’s church are getting into my head. I know a bunch of them now. I want to learn so I can talk to people. I love them.
Sandra was one of the first people I began spending time with. She ran a Pasteleria
with her husband near the town square. Coming from a well-known and wealthy family in Tlaxiaco, their store had many regular customers. These people often liked to talk with me to find out who I was and why I lived there. Sandra was patient with my lack of Spanish and comfortable with “companionable silence.”
I was looking for breakfast one morning when I met Eustolia
, a local vendor. Her stand had all the breakfast staples: quesadillas, taquitos, and empanadas. Eustolia took my Spanish stumblings in stride, although I have to admit that a lot of our conversations were strained. Often, I would just sit and listen to her talk to other customers or friends who passed by. I think she appreciated the attention I attracted, although she never really understood why I had so much free time for visiting.
About halfway through the summer I gave up on the idea of establishing a routine for studying Spanish. I did have a few Spanish textbooks available to me, but I couldn't figure out what “level” I was at or where to begin. I did visit my friends regularly, and read aloud in Spanish every day, but my schedule had frequent interruptions. For example, when Cesia and I needed to wash clothes it was an all day event of washing, rinsing, and wringing each piece out by hand.
Graciela
was a girl my age I had met back in Spring. She offered to help teach me Spanish if I taught her English. To be honest, however, we didn’t spend much of our time together studying.
“Do you want to come with me to a party on Saturday?” She asked eagerly.
“Una fiesta?” I was confused, whose party was I invited to? I didn't know many people.
Graciela explained that it was the birthday party of some friend, but I didn't really understand who she meant. She seemed excited to bring me, even though I had never met this person.
“Ok. Esta bien.”
Over the summer I was invited to many events like this. There was always tons of food, loud music, and drunken old men. I never knew anyone other than the friend who brought me.
Eventually I realized that having a gringa
at your party somehow added status to it, regardless of how loosely related that gringa was.
Over time, I met all of Graciela's family members and even went to school with her once. Unfortunately, I lost contact with her after the summer. It took awhile to discover that she’d followed the cultural trend of getting pregnant at a young age. With virtually no future prospects (a situation that most Oaxacan youth face) she had agreed to move in with her boyfriend’s family to cook and clean for them in exchange for a place to live and raise her daughter.
Re: How are you?
Wednesday, July 11, 2007 2:06 PM
There are rumors flying around the [ministry] base now about my Spanish. I’m not trying to show off, but I want to praise God for it, because He has given me grace. Somewhere in the last 4 months I went from silent to easily conversational, and I’m really blessed in my accent. I can hear the subjunctive tenses now, and I'm using them too. The problems only appear when talking about something really serious, important, or confusing. Then I can’t keep up. But most of anything else I can handle now.
I never planned what to talk about with my friends. Talking was a byproduct of our friendship. It was rare that I used a dictionary to look up a word. The mesa was what I ate at. The escoba was what I swept with. The jabón was what I washed dishes with. If I didn’t know how to say something, I simply talked around it. I wanted to communicate, not be correct.
Communication is something much deeper than language. It is meaning transferred from one person to another. When I focused on relationships, my language ability became a secondary concern. As long as my message was understood, I felt content with the communication. Of course, there were many times when I did not get my exact meaning across. The frustration of this drove me to listen harder, to study harder, and to speak more clearly.
Towards the end of the summer I was talking to a certain vendor that I and my American friends frequented often. I was explaining how I had worked on language all summer, but felt like I had so much more to learn.
“De veras?”
He looked surprised.
“Yeah,” I explained in Spanish, “I mean, my accent needs so much work, and there are so many words I don't know.”
“No, you don't realize. You speak so naturally, I would never know you're American. Talking with you, it's like talking with my daughter.”
My eyes widened in surprise at this compliment. When had my accent gotten better? I couldn't name a particular day when I woke up and started speaking better. Around the same time, Sandra pointed out how much more we could talk about now that I spoke Spanish. Hadn't we been talking all along? At some point, without my notice, our conversations had gotten easier. I remembered that I used to go to bed with a headache from listening so intently all day, but that had stopped. I don't know how, but something had changed. There was substantial and measurable progress, when I never noticed and never planned for it.
Spanish Report—Week of June 2nd to 10th
Monday, June 11, 2007 11:42 AM
So I’ve actually been just using my own system. I only made a couple contacts, but I think that’s working better for me. I’m more relational anyways; I’d rather have a couple close friends than lots of acquaintances. But don’t worry; I’m speaking with Mexicans all day, every day. I spent several hours this week in town, and an hour or so every afternoon doing sit-down study. I’m learning a lot of words and grammar through context, I can’t even think of what they all mean in English. Not sure if this is what you wanted, but whatever I’m doing is working, so I’m gonna stick with it.